HDR Photography and Equipment

Because I lead workshops, I am often asked if a point and shoot digital camera is okay.  Well, the simple answer is absolutely yes.  Here is a little story to illustrate my point.  Let’s say that two photographers wake up early one morning for a full day of shooting.  They both want to capture HDR images during the early morning and late afternoon golden hours.  Photographer one, I’ll call him Sam, has an expensive, professional grade D-SLR camera with an expensive 28-105mm f/2.8 lens but has only a moderate understanding of the camera and its functions and has generally poor technique.  Photographer two, I’ll call her Betty, is using a mid-level fixed zoom lens on a camera with some manual control options.  Betty, unlike Sam, has excellent knowledge of the camera and its functions and has really good technique.  If I were to choose in advance which of these photographers will return with better images I would bet on Betty.  One becomes a better photographer, not by purchasing expensive equipment, but by learning how to use the equipment one has and by practicing good technique.

If one wants to learn how to shoot HDR then one must first learn technique.  One need not have a ton of fancy equipment to create the drama inherent in the HDR image.  Quite the contrary, one can get started with the bare essentials.  All one really needs to get started is an inexpensive point and shoot digital camera so long as you have the ability to use some kind of manual exposure compensation.  You also need a sturdy tripod.  Holding the camera steady during exposure bracketing is an absolute must for merging files to create an HDR image.  Most point and shoot cameras do not have the ability to capture RAW files but no worries.  While not perfect, merging JPEGs works well in most merges to HDR.

Shooting handheld with a point and shoot camera, or even a D-SLR for that matter, is only possible if the camera offers an automatic exposure bracketing (AEB) feature.  Even then, I tend to not recommend one attempt a handheld bracket exposure if one can at all avoid it.  Without AEB the tripod is an absolute requirement.  It is next to impossible to play with the exposure settings while trying to shoot holding the camera in your hand.  Remember, creating an HDR image requires that one merge three to five digital exposures into a single file.  While currently available software is really good at aligning images, hand-held exposures may have such a range of misalignment that the merging software cannot figure out just what to do.

When shooting HDR one is also advised to take white balance off auto mode choosing the most appropriate pre-programmed white balance setting.  If your camera has an auto ISO feature, take it off auto and select the slowest (lowest) ISO setting possible for the luminance of the scene.  Whatever you do, do not use your built-in flash.

Here are a few tips for using a digital point and shoot camera when capturing images for later conversion to HDR.

  • Remember, a tripod is preferable to hand-held shooting
  • Turn off as many automatic settings as possible thereby controlling as much as possible manually
  • If your camera offers aperture priority mode then use it.  Vary exposure by shutter speed keeping the aperture fixed.  This lets you control depth of field.
  • Decide how to bracket.  On a bright sunny day +2,0,-2 or a 5-stop range is appropriate range.  In shadows or on an overcast day or even indoors a +1,0,-1 or 3-stop range is more appropriate.  A bit of experimenting will help you decide which works best for you.

In the final analysis, equipment is far less important than learning and then using good technique.  I have a black and white image hanging in my home that was shot using an oatmeal box, sheet film and a pinhole.  The image is stunning and the camera was made from the simplest of tools.

Sample Point and Shoot HDR ImageThe image to the left was made using a point and shoot Fuji FinePix camera while I was in Rome.  The drama created by the high dynamic range is captured, not through expensive equipment but, rather, through the application of composition approaches and technique.  To those who ask about equipment I answer, bring along what you have and we will work on honing the craft.  Learning how to see with the camera you have is far more important than spending a boat load of cash on the latest and greatest gadgets.


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Volo Bog near Volo, Illinois

Volo Bog near Volo, IllinoisYesterday was a slow day at my studio so I decided, as I often do, to take advantage of the day and shoot some beautiful landscape images in Northern Illinois.  I hadn’t visited Volo Bog in nearly a year making my decision of where to go an easy one.  I am not sorry I made that choice.

The lily pond was shot using a Canon 5D with a Tamron 28-105 mm lens.  I used a fixed f 16 at 28mm and an ISO rating of 200 and shot RAW.  The hdr image was created using Photomatix Pro in the single image batch conversion mode and tonemapped using a landscape preset that I created.

Volo Bog is a beautiful place, offering both floating paths across the bog itself and a circular trail around the bog.  Embracing the wetlands and a large stretch of Illinois tallgrass prairie, the bog offers a wide variety of photo opportunities for creating landscape images.

Want to learn how to Create Memorable Landscapes?  Register for our October 24th workshop held at Starved Rock State Park in Utica, Illinois.  This hands-on experience is limited to 30 participants.  The workshop will focus on framing images, composition, and just a bit of technical information all designed to focus on Creating Memorable Landscapes.


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Thompson Center/State of Illinois Building Atrium

Thompson Center / State of Illinois Building ArtiumThe atrium in the Thompson (named for the long-term governor of Illinois and designed by the renown Chicago architect, Helmut Jahn, the soaring atrium combines parallel lines with curved surfaces and bright red outlines to provide one with a sense of awe without reverence.  Public spaces must create a sense of overwhelming power that welcomes one inside; a display of authority that embraces one’s senses.  This building is, at that level, quite successful.

From a photographer’s point of view, the building provides so many choices, angles, curved and flat surfaces that one has a hard time making a choice.  It seems that any way one points one’s lens a new image emerges.  The space is so rich that one is tempted to just give up and stand staring at the building.  The desire to document kicks in and one shoots, constantly looking for that one angle that says, I got it this time.  Yet it is so very elusive that one is forced to return again and again to try and create an image that captures the extremes of the building.

This HDR image looks up from the lobby toward a bank of elevator shafts exposed to the core of the public space.  Some of the balconies leading to State offices snake away from the elevator tracks and disappear into the edges of the frame.  The soft light filtering through the glass ceiling washes across the space leaving a shadowless illumination; a window light from above.  The image, at least for me, captures the power and the welcome as well as any I have ever made.  I thought it was worth a share.


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Cloud Gate aka The Bean

Cloud Gate aka The BeanOn the left is an image of The Bean, one of the more iconic images of Chicago.  The Bean is its popular name.  The artist named it Cloud Gate.  But, as Shakespeare so aptly noted, “A rose by any other name still smells as sweet.”  So call it what you will, Cloud Gate or The Bean, the fact still remains that it is one of those spots that visitors and natives alike tend to gather and gawk at their reflection in polished stainless steel.

As a photographer living in the greater Chicagoland area, I often photograph landmarks, the iconic places that make a location unique to itself.  Drawn to the Bean in the Summer of 2009, the bright, shiny, reflective surface of this place tends to disrupt my TTL metering system that, in turn, leads to a nicely exposed center and an under-exposed edge.  How can I balance the exposure to account for highlights, shadows and midtones?  The answer is…HDR.

The HDR BeanThe original, single exposure above is darker than I like.  If I merely adjust curves I can lighten the entire image, but I cannot get the balanced tones across the entire dynamic range that my eye sees.  By merging three exposures into an HDR image I may now account for the whole dynamic range available to the sensor and mirror what my eye sees as I observe the scene I am shooting.  The Image to the right is the merged HDR image.  Created using three images shot within a 5-stop range, I captured the highlights, found detail in the shadows and held the midtones in  a rather pleasing manner.

I continue to be excited about the creative potential that lies in the HDR image.  The tools to make HDR work are generally inexpensive.  They add a range of creative options that make color digital photography an exciting place to work.


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Sunday Photo Tips: Introduction to HDR

Midtone Evaluative ExposureThe image on the left was shot in the Spring of 2009 as part of a series of images documenting barns in Kane County, Illinois.  Shot with a Canon 30D with a Canon 75-300 f 4.0-5.6 lens using an ISO of 1600 at 1/100 sec at f 32 at a focal length of 80mm, the image captures midtones well but seems flat when viewed with no adjustments to the file.  One of the things that intrigued me about this image was the melting snow on the barn roof.  Water streaming down the mansard roof left distinctive dark flow lines that mirrored the vertical siding on the barn walls.  In a standard exposure there is no way to capture that without extensive manipulation.

Barn in HDRHere is where HDR or High Dynamic Range imaging comes to the rescue.  When I shot this barn I bracketed three images.  I shot on a rather bright (5 stop) day in the late afternoon as the light warmed and shadows lengthened.  I set the camera to control the aperture (f 32) allowing the TTL metering, set at evaluative, to control shutter speed in order to achieve a 2 stop overexposure, a 2 stop underexposure and an exposure metered correctly.  I used Photomatix Pro available from HDR Soft to combine the three images, registering the objects found in each exposure to create a single merged exposure of the barn in which the full tonal range translates to the image.  Note the snow melt on the roof and the detail of the gray siding standing out.  While not as obvious on the small image size in this post, the detail in the shadow of the rear silo is not washed out as it is in the single, properly exposed image.  The sky is bluer and the golden glow of the warming afternoon light is readily apparent in the HDR image while only hinted at in the single exposure shot.  Beyond the merging of the images using Photomatix Pro, no other digital manipulation was applied to the image you see.  Once returned to Photoshop, I save two files, a TIFF file and a JPEG file.  That’s all I do.

The HDR image is produced with a technology that allows one to capture a scene more or less how one visualizes the scene before snapping the shutter to expose an image.  Some precautions.  I shoot in RAW and, while I bracket the exposure, Photomatix Pro allows me the option of converting a single RAW exposure into an HDR image.  This is possible because RAW captures a full range of exposure data in the digital file and, while presenting only the exposure recorded by the camera settings in the processing software; the RAW file retains all of the data from extreme under to extreme overexposure.  Using this technique in converting an exposure allows one to hand-hold the camera without risking chromatic aberrations along the edges of objects being photographed because the HDR image comes from a single digital file.  Generally, however, I do not suggest letting the software decide for you which exposures to combine.  To minimize the registration problem set your camera on a sturdy tripod.  If your camera has a mirror lock feature use it to minimize camera shake.  Choose appropriate exposures.  On a bright sunny day use a 5-stop range while on a hazy, shadowless day a 3-stop range is more appropriate.  Fix your focal length allowing shutter speed to govern your exposure.  For even more control, set your camera to manual and use a hand-held light meter to measure your correct exposure.  You can then manually adjust the shutter speed to properly expose your three bracketed exposures.  Finally, some folks suggest that you should bracket up to seven exposures.  I think that for most purposes that is overkill, completely unnecessary.  A three image bracket is sufficient to capture the full tonal range and give you images that express your creative vision.


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Butterfly Perched on a Columbine

Original ImageThe image to the left is the original shot taken in the Spring of 2009 cropped to the square format.  The image captures the butterfly quietly sitting on the flower in front of a blurred background.  The bokeh effect is achieved by shooting with a fast lens wide open thereby causing the background to go out of focus while the subject being photographed remains sharp.  Bokeh allows the subject to dominate the image.  For small images bokeh adds an element of focus allowing the viewer to look more deeply at the object being photographed.  It is a technique I like and use a lot.

HDR ConversionTo the right is an HDR conversion of the same image.  HDR or high dynamic range images allow for the entire tonal range to be embedded in the image itself without losing any of the lens effects of the original image.  Normally, HDR is accomplished merging three to five images shot at the same aperture, each exposed on a continuum from under to over-exposed with the one in the middle being properly exposed.  The image in this post, however, was made from a single RAW file.  Because the RAW file contains all of the exposure data from severe under to severe over exposure, Photomatix Pro allows one to do a single image HDR conversion.  I find the results satisfying, though most of my HDR images are still shot with me in control of the over and under-exposure settings.  The HDR image has a richness that is not quite present in the original exposure.  The richness of color in the wings of the butterfly, an almost glow, is a consequence of the merger of under and over exposed images combined with the original which emphasizes the midtones at the expense of highlights and shadows.

I prefer the HDR image as it more closely re-presents what I saw when I exposed the image in the first place.  Of course, I am not opposed to nor do I dislike the original.  Preference is but a matter of taste.  Which one do you like more?


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Workshop Question Answered

Recently a number of people inquired about the type of camera required for the October 24th workshop, Creating Memorable Landscapes.  Well, the simple answer is that any camera will do.  The more complicated response, however, is that a digital camera is preferred but if all you have is a film camera then bring it along but, unfortunately, you will not get instant feedback about your images.

Often people say to me, “You must have a really expensive camera.”  I am tempted to respond with sarcasm but I bite my tongue and explain that the camera is nothing more than a tool for image making.  In fact, I show a number of images I shot with a Fuji FinePix fixed lens point and shoot digital camera.  It is never about one’s equipment, rather making spectacular images is about learning how to see.  Worrying about equipment, thinking that “if only I had a better camera” you would make better pictures is fooling yourself.  Get out of that rut by learning how to see.

The October 24th workshop is not a technical fest.  It is a learning to see experience.  Learning how to frame an image, to shoot what you see in the viewfinder, to create images that sing in the camera thereby limiting the amount of post processing work required to print great images.  That is what the workshop is about.  So register and bring the camera you have.  It will do for the work we are doing.


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We Just Added a New Service for the Studio

I am really excited about this.  Now, for the first time, you may schedule an appointment for a photography session online up to one year in advance of the date of the shoot.  Thanks to a remarkable scheduling program, you may reserve a three-hour portrait slot, a four-hour event, or an eight-hour wedding shoot simply by clicking your mouse a few times.  You set the time, the place and reserve the spot with ease and confidence.  The system will not allow you to book a time that is already taken because it cannot accept duplications.  Check it out and book a photo shoot today.  Simply go to Roger Passman Photography and click on Schedule, pick a date and claim it for yourself.


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Wildflowers in my Front Yard

Every year I plant wildflower seeds in a spot I dug out around my mailbox mainly because I simply found it too hard to mow the lawn around the post support.  On more than one occasion I completely dislodged the mailbox from its base as I drove the tractor too close while looking at the distance between the blades and the support post.  Two years ago I decided to plant wildflowers in the patch immediately surrounding the support post for the mailbox and the red maple tree that seems to be in bad shape since being struck by lightning last Summer.

Gerbera Daisy Detail No. 1Well, as August arrived the Gerbera daisies began to bloom.  Last year they were a deep orange rust color but this year the blossoms are a variegated yellow-rust color.  These close relatives of the common sunflower grow taller than the mailbox itself, flower in mid to late August and provide a photo opportunity that I simply cannot pass up.  So here are a couple of detail shots of the Gerbera daisy blooms that are growing in my front yard as I write this post.

Gerbera Daisy Detail No. 2The Gerbera’s are not the only wildflower growing in and around the mailbox.  There are some yellow asters and violet asters as well but I wait in anticipation to see what this year’s crop of the Gerbera’s will look like.  They are big and bold and make a statement in the front yard.  I really like them.  I hope you do as well.


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Thanks to everyone who Visited us in Oswego

Fall GrassThe weekend weather provided much heat and not too much of a breeze to cool things off, not even a little.  Hardly a cloud dotted the sky to provide much-needed shade.  The sun beating off the asphalt street made it feel even warmer than it already was.  Yet, and in spite of the very hot weather, people came out to look at art at the Oswego Art Festival this past weekend.  My booth was busy most of the morning hours and after a midday break in traffic, in the later part of the afternoon.  People seemed to avoid the noonday sun.

I want to thank everyone who took the time to visit my booth, to talk with me about my photographs.  I wish to thank those who took the time to buy a photograph or two, those who expressed an interest in our October 24th workshop, and those who were intrigued by our Kid’ Club Program for families with children from birth to 24 months of age.  All said and done, you made my weekend a great success.  Thanks for stopping by.


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